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Photos: A tour of Chorrillos, Lima's next big neighborhood
Chorrillos from atop the hill. (Photos: Susana Aguirre)
Susana Aguirre
October 24, 2011
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What started off as a day to take care of some chores turned out to be a lovely sunny Saturday spent re-discovering the gems Chorrillos has to offer.
The district of Chorrillos has a rich and bruised history. Home to a notable fishing pier and once the playground for Lima's 19th century aristocracy, it became a devastated zone after the War of the Pacific and subsequently by the earthquake of 1940.
Today, Chorrillos is a district on the rise, improving upon its infrastructure while its beaches continue to be favorites for Lima's residents.
My morning started off in Miraflores where a stop at the book fair in Parque Kennedy was a must and I snatched up a couple of books in the bargain bin that later turned out to be the perfect companion on the breather I took in front of the glistening Pacific ocean.
From Miraflores to Chorrigood
The bohemian nature of Barranco has spread into the neighboring district of Chorrillos. You'll see this is the case as you make your way to Chorrillos from Miraflores on a scenic S/. 1 bus ride that will take you from the heart of Barranco to your destination. I got on board a bus heading towards Chorrillos at the end-corner of Parque Kennedy on Av. Diagonal, which took me down to Larcomar then through Barranco via Av. San Martin which then turns into Avenida Chorrillos.
Not being familiar with the stops in Chorrillos, I dared to get off once on Avenida Chorrillos and venture out, and I'm glad I did. The best way to enjoy and get to know the streets and neighborhoods is to start walking. I knew the only important landmark I'd have to keep in mind was the ocean, so I started heading in that direction.
Delbarrio
One place that had been on my to-visit list for a very long time was the Galeria Delbarrio. Located on a deserted residential street off the Malecon de Chorrillos, there really was no better time to visit this colorfully hidden Peruvian Pop Art sanctuary than that morning.
Walking in the middle of the road felt like the safest thing to do when one lone biker seemed to be the only driver in existence and the sun only magnetized the enjoyment of taking in the beauty of the old-fashioned and colorful houses.
A project close to Gabriela Tineo's heart, the owner of the gallery hopes the area will grow to accommodate more cultural offerings for its residents and visitors alike. It really is the ideal neighborhood to house those small shops, restaurants and art galleries that are off the tourist route but easily accessible.
Galeria Delbarrio surprised me in the most incredible way. It's a gallery and shop all in one as every thing you set your eyes on can be purchased and you'll find yourself making up reasons for why you simply must have such unique pieces of art in your home. I was captivated by the colors and originality of the contents of every room and I knew the gallery would be a place to come back to find the right Christmas presents for friends and family.
As you see in the picture above, you'll be able to take a breather after walking around the gallery in their lovely cafe and enjoy a cup of coffee or a chilcano if you're in need of something stronger.
Visit www.del-barrio.com for more info!
Take a break on the boardwalk
What I love about the Malecon de Chorrillos is its peaceful atmosphere and breathtaking views of the rest of the city’s coastline and spanning urbanization. The Malecon is clean and well kept, a sign that Chorrillos is working to make the district more tourist friendly. This might also be the best time, right before summer, to visit if you're not a fan of crowded and overheated strolls on the beach. Below the Malecon you’ll find Playa Agua Dulce, a favorite beach that you’ll find packed after December.
Further along the coastline you'll find the fisherman’s port, with colorful boats docked around the pier and maybe one or two out at sea. After the gallery visit, I walked one block to the malecon and found myself in the perfect spot to relax while I waited for a couple of friends. I took out my book, my headphones and enjoyed this moment of serenity observing the activity down below and meditated while taking in the (almost clear) skies above. It was bliss.
The three Cs
But then hunger kicked in and we found ourselves walking back towards the neighborhood to find a place to enjoy a ceviche. Asking one of the guards to recommend a place for lunch was humorous and unnecessary as he ended up pointing in every direction making it obvious that one will find a restaurant practically on every block.
We ended up at El Morocho, a three-story corner restaurant with a fresh and cool interior and amazing views of the ocean. Canchita, ceviche and a cold Cusqueña became the perfect recipe to prepare us for the hike that was in store.
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Cross, Virgen and Christ
After walking around and discovering cute plazas and becoming spectators to how families and groups of friends lounged around in parks, it was almost 4 pm and the sky was announcing the day’s end. It became clear that the perfect end to this impromptu excursion was to head on up to the Cross that, visible from many distant points across the city, was so close and finally reachable. We began our walk up the zigzagging path that gave us spectacular views of the city as we kept on ascending.
Making it to the top of the Morro Solar, as this hill is known, housing the cross made out of what used to be pylons and the Virgen Mary sanctuary, felt like we had completed a very doable and worthwhile feat. The prize at the end of the hike? Taking in the views of Playa La Herradura, which up until that moment was hidden to us.
As we made our way to the infamous Christ of the Pacific, we came across the Municipal stadium that, as you can see above, contrasts in color and size with the rest of the sandy urbanization. Also on our way was the planetarium, the first astronomical observation center in Peru. While it continues to be operational and in fact is the most modern observational center in the country, we couldn't help but feel as if we were back in the 1960s, or in the Back to the Future movies.
Watching the sun come down over the Pacific was the icing on the cake. It was magical and in all honesty it does wonders for the soul.
Finally being in such close proximity to the Christ of the Pacific, and being surprised by how many people do go up--mainly in cars--to see the statue and the amount of street vendors selling from hot chocolate to kites and cotton candy for kids, was also a humorous treat.
As the weather keeps on improving in Lima, making your way down to Chorrillos has the potential of being one of the most unexpectedly pleasant day trips you've embarked on in a while.
If you are interested in visiting this or any of the countless beautiful places here in Peru, contact our travel consultant, Morten Jensen at mbj@peruexperience.com, www.peruexperience.com or 51-1-221-9998.
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