Nanka is so much more than a restaurant. It’s a love story and a sustainable gastronomic space with a soul. General Manager Lorena Valdivia, a born and bred Molinera, and Chef Jason Nanka, an Aussie, met Down Under and now co-own their dream in Lima’s ecological district of La Molina.

Nanka’s dining area is welcoming, ample, well-ventilated and flooded with sunlight thanks to its louvered roof and environmentally-conscious architecture. The custom-designed wooden tables are harmoniously distributed around the reclaimed-granite-topped Gastro Bar that faces the open kitchen. Also, the rooms for private functions are decked out with flat screen monitors that project the white-coats at work.

Jason grew up on an herb farm in Australia, so in Nanka’s patio and vertical PVC cylinder gardens, he harvests culinary herbs and spices. This interesting feature attests to Jason and Lorena’s keenness for locally grown ingredients.

If the visually refreshing interiors and patio aren’t enough to make you feel at peace, you’ll be soothed by their complimentary Agua Nanka, chilled and infused with citrus fruits and herbs. Furthermore, since sustainable doesn’t mean alcohol-free, the bar offers Pisco cocktails like Camupolitan and Mojisco, imported and domestic artisan brews, Argentinean sparkling wine and other spirits.

Now, let’s talk food! Nanka pays homage to Peruvian, seasonal, sustainable, locally-sourced, and, whenever possible, organic products. Additionally, they have a clear motto: “Cocina saludable para compartir.” Simply put, healthy food that’s enough to share.

An interesting note is that Nanka sticks to seasonal fishing regulations and is mindful of overfishing. They believe that Lenguado –a popular species for making ceviche- can be replaced with responsibly fished varieties. In this sense, Nanka features bonito for their ‘cevichito’ by curing it with salt, sugar and fresh ginger. The marinated bonito emulates tuna fish and is served on a pad of thinly sliced avocado, topped with pickled papaya, watermelon, crispy onion rings and a tangy Nikkei-style Leche de Tigre.

For a light starter, also fit for pescatarians, check out the Vietnamese style spring rolls served with a piquant dipping sauce. Tumbes shrimp is bundled in rice paper, deep-fried and set into an organic iceberg wrap with aji limo, organic basil, cilantro and crunchy rice vermicelli. This light, crispy and slightly messy “hands on” dish is not to be ordered if you are on a first date.

As a warm appetizer, try the gently seared scallops served on silky puréed cauliflower crowned with black pudding-beetroot crumble and radish sprouts. Essentially, the flavors work well although I found the blood sausage, which I love, somewhat tough to chew.

Turning to Nanka’s “big ones”, we feasted on the sustainable catch of the day which was cachema. This 2 lb. fish cooked on the bone is topped with seafood curry and grilled cherry tomatoes. The delicately sweet coconut milk and lemongrass sauce is reminiscent of Asian cuisine, flavors that are very dear to Jason’s heart.

If you crave something other than seafood, the carnivorous PachaNANKA might be your choice. Since food can be the way to a woman’s heart, Nanka’s Aussie Chef mastered this ancestral staple for his sweetheart’s enjoyment. Now you can also indulge in this dish of organic chicken, pancetta and ossobuco, all distinctly marinated and accompanied with assorted Andean tubers, corn, fava beans and queso fresco. Not to be missed are the three dipping sauces included with this pre-Incan delicacy.

For a sweet finale, we sampled soufflé de aji amarillo and biscocho de caramelo al vapor. Of the two, the soufflé stands out for its unique flavor. This spicy double-decker is accompanied with corn-pisco sorbet and jaggery syrup that tone down the unmistakable heat from the aji amarillo. Dehydrated pineapple flakes and crushed pecan pralines add crunchiness to make this dessert a true winner.

Coffee at Naka is a serious affair. Barista Champion Harrysson Neira carefully selects and roasts organic beans from the Jaen province and pairs each cup with La Iberica chocolate from Arequipa. It’s definitely worth stopping by Nanka solely for coffee and dessert.

Lorena and Jason have a fabulous partnership and have assembled a dream team of like-minded young and motivated professionals. The casual atmosphere in Nanka exudes friendship and fine taste. While Nanka is not a vegetarian restaurant, they will accommodate requests from vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free diners. If you appreciate a healthy and sustainable approach to food, without sacrificing culinary creativity, this is a place to check out with friends and family.

 

 

Nanka

Where: Jr. Bambúes 198, La Molina. Behind Molina Plaza.
When: Tuesday to Saturday: 1 p.m. - 11 p.m. Sunday 1 p.m. - 5 p.m.
Reservations: (511) 369-7297; reservas@nanka.pe;
Website: Facebook
Services:
Valet Parking
Temperature controlled wine-cellar
Wheelchair accessible
Private room (10-20 guests. Minimum S./ 1.000 consumption)
Wine corking fee: S/. 40
Price range:
Para picar (appetizers): S/. 36-42
Starters: Half portions: S/. 25-49. Full Portions: S/. 38-68.
Large entrées (enough to share between 2 or 3 persons): S/. 100-120
Sides: S/. 12-30
Dessert: S/. 18-24
Gastronomic feast (degustation): S/. 100
Pisco Cocktails: S/. 22
Wine: S/. 80 - 350

 

 

 

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COMMENTS:

Total coments: 3
Commented By: dreateg
On: February 10, 2012

Congratulations to Lorena and Jason and thank you both for bringing such an important concept to dining: seasonal, sustainable and locally grown products, and in La Molina We know Nanka well and recommend the dining experience, which as you say is friendly,casual with fine taste. Thank you for this fine article.

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Commented By: elbeyborrero
On: February 13, 2012

Dear dreateg, Thank you for your comments. I am glad that you enjoy dining in Nanka. Jason and Lorena are a fine example for the youth. Their concept is impeccable, and being in La Molina is a step in the right direction towards diversifying Lima's gastronomic destinations. Living in Peru goes beyond living in Miraflores, so I encourage folks to experience Nanka's innovative space and fresh approach to life.

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Commented By: Lorena
On: February 16, 2012

Hi Dianne thanks for your comments! It is always a pleasure to serve you and your family at NANKA :) See you soon! Lore & Jason

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