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Exploring Lima's Costa Verde

La Herradura at Christmas (Hector Vinces/Andina)

By Roxana Garmendia

February 22, 2012

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Roxana Garmendia



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Curiosity is a trait that all human beings have, in different degrees, and some remarkably more than others. I am one of those who definitely has it and does not pretend to hide it.

So after hearing and reading the abundant negative remarks on the works of the Mayor, including the facelift of the Herradura Beach, I decided to take a look at it myself and build my own opinion.

Twice I tried to reach this recreation zone in the Costa Verde and twice I failed. Why? Simply because of the incredible traffic with hundreds of vehicles taking the Costanera road as a way to commute from one neighborhood to the other! If you add hundreds more that actually take this same road as a mean to actually get to their preferred beach, it is simply an impossible task, and means yet one more frustrated trip where you simply decide to turn back! One day, I dream, an elevated highway or a metro will help us enjoy the view of our beautiful coastline while facilitating our daily travels and sparing us from misery.

Well, this Saturday, I finally made it there. The traffic, for some odd reason, was not that bad. So off we went with a group of friends from my days in Nepal. As we drove past the Regatas Club up in the hill, we could already see the improvements along the winding road that would take us to the Herradura Beach. In front of us stood a pleasant boulevard, with cement benches and street lights that Limeños and others could use as their perfect spot to watch the most stunning sunsets and the beautiful skyline of Lima.

We continued driving and passed the classic Salto del Fraile Restaurant where the monk still jumps from the cliff deep into the blue waters, a few meters later; there it was, a beautiful and picturesque coastal resort for us to enjoy.

As our stomachs were gurgling non-stop, we headed straight to one of the many restaurants along the boulevard, a classic one, and ordered seafood and drinks. We sat at the terrace and the sight we had in front of us was simply magical - blue skies with a sparkling blue-silver ocean. It immediately reminded me of the stunning silver waters in the most northern tip of Norway some years back. Yes, no need to go all the way to the northern hemisphere to watch this spectacle. It was just there, just a few meters away, all for us!

“Such potential in this small beach resort and surroundings,” I thought as I was imagining better views from one or two floors higher. How marvelous could it be if there were an ice cream parlor, a coffee or a tea shop where one could spend quiet afternoons contemplating the beautiful sunsets. An imminent must, though, is for the authorities to take control over the levels of noise emanating from the various restaurants, cars and colorful moto-taxis, each playing their favourite tunes at the highest pitch. Yes, there is much to be done and much to look forward to.

After indulging ourselves with the best conchitas with parmesan cheese ever, a few glasses of white wine and liters of fresh lemonade, we headed out into the city. On our way up, I noticed that there was no easy access or path to enable people from Chorrillos walk down to the beach, a pending task.

In the past years, there is no doubt our Costa Verde has been lifted up, and for the better. But yet again, access often remains a headache. One could dream of a funicular, cabins or chairs that could transport people up and down or one that extends along the coastline for purposes of sightseeing. Who knows, one day perhaps. We are indeed one of the few capitals in the world that stretches into the ocean. Again, there is so much potential as long as urban development comes along with due planning and respect for the legal order. In the meantime, let our five senses capture the best of this beautiful stretch of coast we have.
 

Roxana Garmendia is a lawyer specializing in human rights and international relations. She served in high-ranking positions for the United Nations in Asia, Africa, the Americas and Europe, primarily in post-conflict societies. She is currently residing in her native Peru and working as a consultant on human rights issues.


 
 
Total coments: 1

Commented By: jimmyjames
On: February 23, 2012. 11:33 am

Dear Roxana, nice article but one that would be expected, and gives the feeling of being written by a gringo... YES, this Costa Verde project is beautiful and enjoyable. BUT, as an human rights lawyer, I would expect an article that seems to support -THE MAYOR- to be MAYBE about the fact that many of these AND yours poor people lost their possesions and livlihoods in a fire in centra Lima largely due to NEGLECT in ensuring that the fire hydrant system was and is fully functional. MAYBE about the overpriced food costs that SHOULD NOT be out of the range of a majority of YOUR citizens. PLEASE DON'T MENTION (Susana V's) name (as a human rights lawyer) and ''abundant negative remarks'' in such an article....

 

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